Guide To Connoisseur Coffees

Hell Really Exists

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Arabian Mocha: The original mud from Yemen, grand-daddy of them all* Small bean ("short berry"), profound, eatthy, full-bodied, heauty: Sufi wit and contemplation.

Brazil San tor Snappy, dry, medium-bodied, piquant and perky, the keystone of coffee commerce. July 1975frosts, devastated the crop, making fine Santos hard to get-

Colombia Medeliin: Legendary for richness, moderate milds from standard Excelso to deep Supremo and famous Medeliin, flavorful even decaffeinated.

Costa Rica SHB (Strictly Haid Bean): Delight of Euro peans, paradoxical heavy smoothness and rich acidity, great dark-roasted.

El Salvador: Mild, sweet, medium-bodied Central Standard, sharper full-poweied Salvador Doiea SHG (Strictly High Grown), long the favorite of Germany. ,

Ethiopia Hariar: Sometimes also called Mocha, acidy, dusty pungency, gutsy oomph and brilliance. A certain wjjdness: the blew Rimbaud smuggled guns in at Harrar.

Guatemala Antigua: Zesty, bracing, very high grown, medium-bodied red lightning. Almost psychedelic: the DMT of coffees.

Haiti: Voodoo brew, pleasant full-bodied sweetness with a hint of strange danger. Best dark-roasted as in Port-all-Prince and Paris.

Indian Nflgiri: Malabar. Mysore, Nilgiri. Tellicherry. fabled names of the spice-drug tiade; thick, dusty, rich. Try a Plantation Peaberry for Tan trie energy.

Jamaica Blue Mountain: Princess of the Caribees: a dream of mellow sensuality. Very rare, very expensive, this si Iky-soft, ample-bodied courtesan deserves to be nakedly nuzzled, subdy savored, gently and lovingly lapped ah

Java: Bold, mouth-filling, velvety, gets smoother as it cools. Most famous Arabica in history, will take you back to tall sails and high seas, Aliab and Queequeg,

Kalossi Celebes: From Sulawesi, next to Borneo; syrupy, spicy, feathery smooth. Celebes and French Roast blended, magniftque, formidable.

Kenya: Brisk, bittersweet, full-bodied, elusively aro matic: safari medicine with a touch of black mystery.

Kana Gold: Subtle, medium-bodied, grown on Mauna Loa's lava beds. Make it full strength to transmute its brassiness into molten gold. Like "Kona Gold" pot, offers best opportunity for top grade U.S. homegrown.

Martinique: Buccaneer's brew, choice of colonial America, sassy with surprisingly delicate witielike odor.

Mexico: Diverse as Mexican weed, often unremarkable. Oaxacan has a tang superb with chili when you get the munehies. Basis of the best coffee liqueur, Kahlua.

Mocha Java: The only true chemical blend, Yemenite roasted with Java: brilliance, depth, sturdiness, com-

plexity. In cafés, "Mocha J.wT is half coffee. half hot chocolata» sweetened and creamed to ts&te.

Tajisufiia; Low acidity, mild, full-flavored, laconic, suggestive; a beautiful large bean produced on the slopes of Kilimanjaro.

Venezuela: Delicate, sweet, lij?ht-bodied. fine, the mountain growths from Tachira and Merida are also called Mamcaibcs after the port

Yunnan: Yes. then* is a gourmet coffee from China, by no means a peasant brew, aromatic and Mandarin-eloquent, scarcer than 1000-year-old e^gs in U.S.

Zñlrti (formerly Congr): Homeland of neutral Robustas, but the gourmet gradea are Arcbicas from Kivu and Ituri: aridy, potent Congolese Black.

Routing puffs up and darkens \ha beans, so the darker the roast, the more coffee you must ust. Th« nanus of the roast depend* on bow long the beans are burnt, not whore they come from.

American Roast Ptam golden 'light city1' to chestnut-colored "full city," the regular commercial mast, perfect for those who prefer light conversation to existential philosophy.

Vienna Roost Somewhat darker, a trace of oil apparent on the bean. Favorite fuel of Strauss waltzers. "Viennese Coffee1* is brewed only from this lightest of dark roasts, often with milk, doves, allspice or cinnamon, always with a generous dollop of sweet whipped cream on *f1>

French Rossi' "The primary characteristic of the being of an existent is never to reveal itself completely to consciousness." (-Sartre.) Hefty, dark chocolate-colored. quite oily, astringent Savor it with Talleyrand's mantra, "Black as the devil, hot as hell. Pure as an angel, sweet as love," or try café au lait (half hot milk) with flaky croissants for superb continental breakfast Often called New Orleans Roast, with chicory added make* Louisiana coffe*.

Italian Roust Complicated, elegant a little sinister ("a fon» eleverly kept hidden, a man jealously guarding his true strength from pubhc gase'-María Pus-»)- Almost carbonized, burnt black, huge, very oily; the gloom and paid of Canivaggio. Esptesso is made in a machine that forces live steam through the grounds; ceppurino adds scalded milk* ft glop of froth« a sprinkle of chocolate ^r dnnamoTL Italian ¡Roast with a twtet of lemon, Roman style is especially dfllcious.

CAPreiNE TABLE

Coffee (masted, ground, brewed) 60- l2ftng/5 02

Instant coffee 7£M0Cmg/5oz

Tea 30-a&mg/5oz

South American epcaa 30-S0mg/S oz

Chocolate bar 20-30mg/6 oz

Cola a0m¿75 oz

No Dai 10Qmg/tab

Turkish Coffee: Brewed In a special pot, the Iljrik, with sides sloping inward at the top to keep rt from boiling over. For each serving, add a heading spuon of very; finely ground Mocha and the same amount of sugar to J thive ounces of water bring to (»oil, producing a foam j called "the face of the coffee." Pour a little into a demitasse, foam and all. do nnt stir: repeat br »ling and pouring two or three timas. A favorito of 5CW)00 hippies at Ytucr s near the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, goes gruat with brittle Turkish "hand-aid" sticks of hash. !»

Cardamom Cuffed The mainstay of Bedouin hospitality. served ceremonially from a brass pot with an elongated curvcd spout. Urop two teispoons of crushed green cardamom pods and seeds in a little h;>t water, plus saffron, cloves, sugar and strong Mocha for each medium-small cup; boil 2-3 minutes, strain and se,rve. A loud slurping noise when drinking is good form.

Cofé Hotel flilz: Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway nursed hangovers with this sublimity that sneaks up on you: to v*ach cup of ftench Roast, add a dose of heavy cream and a tablespoon of cognüc

Irish Coffee: Invented in San Francisco by a spirited immigrant from Shanium, now the favorite of poets and politicians from Boston to Baghdad by the Hay. Put two spoons of sugar in a glass coffee mug, leave the spoon in the glass to prevent breakage, pour in hot, strong coffee and a jigger of Irish whiskey. Stir, top it off with heavy cream, stand on the table, sing "Danny Boy/1 and lcfFrechaura will come and haul you away.

Café de Oiío; Traditionally made and served In a handleless earthenware pot (oJfo), this Mexican delight heats a cup of watci; half a stick of cinnamon, a whole clove, and tw¿ heaping spoons of raw brown sugar \ (piloncillo) together When thu su^ar dissolves, add a spoun of dark roast—Plumas preferred—bring to a boil, simmer two minutes, stir, cover, let stand so tht? grounds settle, and drink quickly.

Mocho Ghirardei/i; Another San Francisco specialty, originally served in Domingo Ghirardolli's nbsinthe and chocolate shop in gold rush days, now quaffed by tourists and theatet^oers upstairs in thu converted old I rick factory at Ghiraniellt Square. Equal parts strong coffee and luscious dark cocoa. Ho not boil, serve p iplhg hot in mugs; top with marshmalluws or whipped cream.

The Shanghai Shag: From the Barbary Coast of ittHQs San Francisco, usually administered by a doxy from the cribs, usually taken on a dare; black, thick coffet: law! with whiskey, brandy, gin and laudanum. Recruitment technique for th^ China trade. For modern recreational use. a bit of black opium bubbled in scalding coffee, spooned out and swallowed, will foster a mellow fantasy in your brain by the time you've finished the cup. slowly.

Michael Atdrich

High Times, Nov. 1976

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