Get your fan out. Put your shrooms in front of the fan on a plate or tray of some sort. Crank the fan on high. Then after a day of Fan, Switch to the Damp Rid method. In a container, add a layer of Damp Rid, then have the screen suspend 1/4" somehow over the Damp Rid. Do this for 2 days. Weigh your shrooms, if they loose any weight over a 24 hour period, keep them for another 24 hour period.
right, After they have been fanned for 24 hours, I used to put my shrooms in this thing. it's just a sieve that fit's in a small pot with Damp-Rid in it. The whole thing is then put in a big Zip-Lock Freezer back so that the Damp-rid can not absorb any moister that might be in the air. This works good on the last 24hrs of drying. This setup has it's drawbacks, cause the shrooms are often touching each other, and moisture transfers from shroom to shroom. That is why I suggest a this: A good setup is using a pie tin filled with Damp-Rid and then placing the shrooms on a 'spatter guard' seen below. You can also get some screen from your local hardware store and construct your own little contraption, but this is a nice solid piece with a handle and a good stable edge.
oven with duct tape over the tear. The picture on the right is a close up of it's mesh. These are sold in the grocery store for around $5-6 for two. (Near the can openers, knives, thermometers, stuff like that)
The Infamous Damp-rid, can be found at local hardware stores. Just ask for something to 'dry the air under your sink.' don't buy the system, just buy the big jug like this for $5.
After your shrooms are completely dry, some people like to use desiccant or oxygen absorbers to help preservation. These can be found in vitamin containers.
Now that you have dried your mushrooms, it is time to store your desiccant I put the whole drying setup in a trash bag and twist the end. This is VERY important because your desiccant will continue to absorb moisture out of the air and waste you money.
Once you have dried mushrooms, you should have some fully colononized jars, or almost colonized jars. You should replace the casing with your new jars after your second flush, and put the old casing in the yard (if you have that type of yard). If the jars are not fully colonized or just becoming fully colonized, you should wait for a third flush. Make sure to clean your terranium and casing trays out really well. Replace the perlite and Case. Then start the process all over again from the beginning. By keeping jars colonizing the whole time you are growing, your growth will be constant.
Final thought. Tek's that advise you to use your lids to place cakes on are stupid. Without lids you can not keep a constant growth of new mycelium. The jars should have colonizing mycelium in it at all times. Using the lids creates a two week period of waiting. The fact that aluminum foil could easily do the job of the jar lid clearly shows that the people who use the lids are clearly not into efficiency.
In order to achieve a good success rate when making transfers, you must first construct a transfer chamber or "glove box." This is simply an enclosed area that can be cleaned with disinfectants to keep out contaminants. Such a chamber can be designed in many ways and need not be elaborate to work well. Basically what you are striving for is an enclosure which provides a sterile, draft-free environment to work in while performing sterile culture work.
A good, inexpensive glove box can be constructed from a cardboard box, some aluminum foil and a sheet of plexiglass.
You will need the following materials:
Clean, sturdy cardboard box. Razor knife or box cutter Can of spray adhesive. Roll of heavy duty aluminum foil. Roll of duct tape.
A piece of plexiglass cut to approximately 10" x 14". Clean dish towel.
Obtain a good, clean, sturdy cardboard box with a removable lid. The kind paper is shipped in is ideal and can be found at any printing shop or office supply company.
Use a small dish or bowl as a template and draw two circles about 5" in diameter on the front of the box. Cut out the two circular holes in the front side of the box (to allow you to insert your arms while making transfers). Also cut a square hole in the lid of the box slightly smaller than the sheet of plexiglass (approx. 9" x 13"). This hole will be covered with the sheet of plexiglass, effectively forming a "window" in the top of the box.
A razor knife or box cutter makes an ideal tool for cutting these holes in the box. Once you have the holes cut you can proceed to step II and prepare to apply the foil.
Wipe the inside of the box with alcohol and allow it to dry. After the alcohol dries liberally spray the entire inner surface of the box (sides, bottom and top) with the supplied Lysol aerosol. This kills any spores that are lying dormant on the surface of the cardboard. Once the Lysol has evaporated, spray a layer of adhesive in the bottom of the box and apply a sheet of aluminum foil to cover. Do not worry if the foil has a few wrinkles or creases. You just want to have a nonporous surface that is easy to clean and sterilize as well as being waterproof. Repeat this process on all sides of the inside of the box.
Fit the lid onto the box. Place the sheet of plexiglass over the hole in the lid of the box and tape each side to the box with duct tape. Be sure to seal each edge as you tape the plexiglass down to the box. This forms a nice, airtight "window" in the top of the box which will allow you see into the cabinet with no risk of contamination from airborne spores and bacteria.
Leave the lid of the box removable (do not tape) to allow easy access for placing your materials inside prior to performing sterile transfer work.
Take a small, clean dishtowel and drape it across the top of the box so that it hangs down over the two hand holes in the front.
Run a strip of duct tape along the edge of the towel taping it to the lid of the box along the edge of the plexiglass.
The towel serves as a barrier to prevent drafts from entering the cabinet while you are working, effectively keeping contaminants out.
Do not tape the lid down. Leave the lid removable so it will be easier later when you need to load materials into and out of the sterile cabinet.
Congratulations! You now have a completed, fully functional sterile transfer cabinet that only cost a few bucks Spray inside of chamber with Lysol before each use but ALLOW ALCOHOL FROM LYSOL to EVAPORATE COMPLETELY!!! before lighting any burners or lighters inside of box... unless you like the "hairless" look and don't mind your arms stinging like hell for a day or two!
Psilocyber's Syringe Tek v1.0
by Psilocyber - [email protected] Archived by Erowid with permission of SporeWorks, July 2001
NOTE: These instructions are most effective when performed in the most sterile environment available. The preferred method involves following the steps below while working in a clean and sterile glovebox. There are many simple methods of glovebox construction; most are available on the web at the popular mycological culture websites. If you do not wish to construct a glovebox, or do not have one, the following steps have been performed with success by using the "oven tek." This simply involves using your oven as a way of reducing the amount of contamination present. To do this, turn your oven on its "warm" setting. Pull down the door. You may then use the open door as a working surface or pull out one of the oven racks halfway and work on it. The theory (unproven) is that rising heat from the oven causes airborne contaminates to rise and therefore prevents them from settling on your working surface and therefore reducing the number of contaminates present.
• Empty sterile syringes
• Two quart (or larger) saucepan
• One bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol
• Several paper towels
• A lighter or alcohol flame
• Sterile spore print
Procedure One: Making a sterile syringe
1. Fill your saucepan halfway with tap or distilled water (use distilled water if your tap water contains higher levels of minerals and chemicals).
2. Boil the water in the saucepan on high for a minimum of ten minutes, this should be adequate to sterilize and cleans the water of all bacteria and viruses.
3. Take your empty syringe and fill it with the boiling water. Allow it to sit for two minutes with the hot water inside.
4. Purge the hot water from the syringe into a sink, not back into the saucepan.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 two more times. Upon the second time leave the hot water in the syringe.
6. Place the syringe in a cool draft-free place, preferable in a clean zip-lock bag
7. Allow it to cool for several hours before proceeding to Procedure Two.
Procedure Two: Transferring print spores into syringe
1. First clean your work area. This may involve wiping down all work surfaces with a diluted bleach solution and spraying the area liberally with a disinfectant such as Lysol.
2. Place the following materials in your glovebox or on the oven door working surface: The shot glass, your cooled syringes, the bottle of alcohol, a paper towel, your print (still in zip-lock baggie) and the lighter or alcohol flame.
3. Wash hands with antibacterial soap before proceeding further.
4. Fold the paper towel up into % sections and soak a corner of it with the alcohol.
5. With the alcohol soaked towel wipe the interior of the shot glass, essentially sterilizing the surface you are about to use in the transfer. Allow the shot glass to air dry, should only take a few seconds.
6. Remove the needle guard from your sterile syringe and flame sterilize the needle. Then take your alcohol soaked paper towel and wipe the needle with it to further aid in the sterilization. At this point try to avoid letting the needle touch any other surface unless otherwise instructed to do so.
7. NOTE: it is important at this point to work as quickly as possible to help combat the chances of contaminating molds and bacteria falling into your work area and thereby ruining your syringe.
8. Remove the print from its storage baggie. Unfold it to expose the spores. Lightly begin to scrape, using the needle of the syringe, a section of the print off into the shot glass. For a medium sized print it is usually adequate to scrape off a section no larger than 1/5 of the total print.
9. You will have a small noticeable collection of spores in the shot glass. Now expunge no more than half of the water from the syringe into the shot glass, lightly stirring the spores into the solution.
10. Suck the spore water solution into the syringe. You may need to expunge some more water into the shot glass and re-suck to help in capturing all the spores into the syringe.
11. Once you have the spore solution back into the syringe you should notice that the water inside has turned a darker shade of color and you may see small clusters of spores floating in the solution. This is good, you have completed the process.
12. Sterilize the needle again with the alcohol soaked paper towel, replace the needle guard and place the syringe back into your clean zip-lock bag.
13. Allow the syringe to sit for no less than 12 hours before using it in jar inoculation. This is extremely important, as the spores must be allowed to rehydrate before they can be introduced into the substrate material. Failure to allow this may result in slow or no germination.
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