Prepare substrate jars normally. Sterilize them and allow to cool. To break the mycelium up while in the syringe, Draw air through the needle while flaming it. Then give the syringe a shake for 2 minutes. Then inoculate the jars with the syringe that was made.
There you have it. Colonization should complete in about one to two weeks.
Now the jar you injected the Karo into doesn't ever need to be birthed. It could be taped and put into the refrigerator to be re-used. You'll never need another spore print in your life. When the cake gets old. Use another colonized cake you have made, But I suggest you do this if it's a isolated strain or clone. If its not, there is no need to keep them around.
This Tek was first done by Magash. Then told to me. The secret has been unleashed! Enjoy! Grow Simple, Be Safe. *
by ~LiL KuSsH~
Quoting Lichen on his three day old Honey Tek jar: "as of what--three days, now? it is developing a yellowish sort of stuff in the bottom looks like sediment. I shake it up and it swirls around like a snowstorm paperweight, then settles again."
"See this is the problem with honey. Honey contains "hidden" impurities: wax and protein. When you cook honey the protein denatures, just like cooking the whites of an egg. The protein is not visible in fresh honey, cook it and the protein denatures and coagulates... Hence sediment. The wax, which is emulsified in fresh honey, separates out upon heating and forms scum... Some of it binds to the coagulated protein, some of it floats to the top. Then there is the color, which varies from honey to honey. It all makes it difficult for people new to liquid culture to determine off colors and contams. I am rapidly becoming motivated to do some experimental research with clear Karo syrup, which is available right on the shelf of any decent grocer... "
And so I did. Here is the proven Tek:
Use 1 Level Teaspoon of Light Corn Syrup (Karo Syrup or the "no-name" store brand of Light Corn Syrup) per 100 ml of purified water. Mix it well to distribute the heavy syrup into the water.
You can use an empty syringe to measure out lOOcc, many jars are graduated
The Karo jar is made up and Sterilized with a solid dome lid, inverted so that the seal side is up (we don't want to can it) and the band screwed on loosely. Foil Cover of course. PC time is 20 minutes.
To shoot the jar I place it in the Glovebox, remove foil, band, and lid, and shoot directly into the liquid. Inoculate at the rate of 1 cc spores per 100 cc Karo Solution. I pre-sterilize some extra jar lids wrapped in foil and I open one in the glove box and place the clean dry lid on the jar mouth with the seal side _down_. Screw the band on tight and replace the foil cap.
To Clone you open the jar and drop in (or shoot with 9er Tek) a sample of macerated tissue. I use the same basic tek when working with spore prints: open the jar, tip the print over give it a flick or a scrape... Plenty of spores drop, rehydrate, and germinate... Incubate, in a 7-10 days you are ready to shoot dozens of jars... Bulk Grain... Store the excess in the fridge, it keeps for a good long time.
Karo jars prepared in this fashion can be shaken vigorously without leaking or contam problems. Everytime I open a jar in the glovebox I always replace the dome lid with a clean sterilized one, seal side down.
It's a super Tek that gets around the problems with honey. Karo is cheap, easy, and to the point. The speed blows the doors off of Agar Culture.
I will give up some liquid culture pointers... You only need 100cc or so (I mean that's enough to shoot 100 jars already). And don't let it get thick, it reduces the refrigerated storage life (because all nutrients are consumed). All you need to grow out and shoot is a mass of mycelium about the size of a quarter in 100cc of liquid.
My reply is:
What you are looking for is wispy, puffy, sometimes ropy white stuff that clumps and hangs on the bottom. You should shake and/or swirl the jar on occasion to try to keep the mass broken up. Before drawing up syringes to shoot jars thrash the mycelium with the needle and break it up (it fragments very easily at this stage). The solution in the syringe need not be dense... But you should see plenty of tiny little "floaties" in there... It's all you need.
Shooting Dextrose/Karo Tek early helps in a few ways: it saves time; it prevents heavy clumping which can clog standard spore gauge needles; the residual sugar, freshly macerated tissue, and change of media gives a "hot" inoculation, showing growth in 24 hours under incubation; and the cultures appear to store better when fridged. The longer you hold them the greater the chance of Contam.
This is a good place to drop another tek tip: Make sure the jars and everything are crystal clean... Not that a bit of filth hurts the tek (because it is pc sterilized) but flecks of dirt in the clear liquid culture _look_ like contams... and you never seem to notice them until after the mycelium has started to take off... You will be swirling in front of a good light and all of the sudden there is a flake of verm or a small grain of rice flour that somehow got in there and then it seems to make all the difference, it's very noticeable... Always difficult to identify.
I was embarrased to find a hair and another fleck of filth floating in one of my Karo jars the other day. Of course they are sterile, I forgot to wipe the jars out before filling... You would be surprised at the dust and crap that gets in the jars at filling time if you are not clean... It does not hurt the tek, but motes of dust and stuff look like contams. In fact motes of cotton dust floating look very much like spores germinating at 24-36 hours. As long as the specks are not growing the culture is fine, but with an eye after a jar or two, you will see fine detail under good light.
You can also add some small chunks of clean broken glass to the jar before sterilizing, shaking the jar with the glass in it fragments the mycelia nicely and speeds up the growth.. But it makes it harder to eyeball.
Another good way to break up the mycelium is simply to draw in a syringe and squirt it back out intot the liquid. This usually disperses the myc very well and helps to break up the larger clumps. As for volume. I use 200-250cc (a pint jar about halfway). I shake every day for aeration and to prevent clumping and matting. When its done in about 12-14 days or so, at rest, the mycelium reaches about 3/4 of the way up from the bottom of the jar. This ensures that all 20-25 syringes have ample mycelium. Since the mycelium is actually cultured in the liquid, any syringe will grow out even if there are no visible mycelium clumps (as opposed to say 9ers cloning tek where if you disperse the tissue fragment in too much water, some syringes may have no mycelium fragments and will not grow anything) but the clear syringes usually don't blast off the same way as the relatively cloudy ones.
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