Preflowers, as opposed to full-blown flowers, generally appear after the fourth week of vegetative growth from seed. Check carefully above the fourth node. Please note that preflowers are very small and are difficult to differentiate without magnification.
The female preflower is pear shaped and produces a pair of pistils. Frequently, the female preflowers do not show pistils until well after the preflowers have emerged. Thus, don't yank a plant because it has no pistils. Pistillate preflowers are located at the node between the stipule and emerging branch.
Also, some female preflowers never produce pistils. A female preflower without pistils is difficult to distinguish from a male preflower. Thus, hermaphrodite issues should not be resolved by the appearance of preflowers, without pistils, on a plant otherwise believed to be a female.
The male preflower may be described as a "ball on a stick." However, its most recognizable feature is its absence of pistils. Sometimes, a male plant will develop mature staminate flowers after prolonged periods of vegetative growth. These appear in clusters around the nodes.
The following image shows a male plant in early flowering. Staminate flowers are located at the node between the stipule and emerging branch.
Identifying the sex of your plants is critical in ensuring a seedless crop.
Identifying the sex of your plants is critical in ensuring a seedless crop.
A hermaphrodite is a plant of one sex that develops the sexual organs of the other sex. Most commonly, a flowering female plant will develop staminate flowers, though the reverse is also true. Primarily male hermaphrodites are not as well recognized only because few growers let their males reach a point of flowering where the pistillate would be expressed.
Hermaphrodites are generally viewed with disfavor. First, they will release pollen and ruin a sinsemilla crop, pollinating themselves and all of the other females in the room. Second, the resulting seeds are worthless, because hermaphrodite parents tend to pass on the tendency to their offspring.
Please note that occasionally specious staminate flowers will appear in the last days of flowering of a female plant. These do not drop pollen and their appearance is not considered evidence of deleterious hermaphroditism.
A plant can remain in the vegetative state almost indefinitely under ideal conditions or it can be forced to flower anytime after it has established itself. It is up to the individual and the needs of the garden. If all other conditions remain the same, only the size of the plants, and subsequently the harvest, will be affected by the length of the vegetative period. Keep in mind that a plant can double or even triple in size after it's forced to flower, so plan accordingly.
If you are growing indoors, you will generally want to flower your plants when they are one to three feet tall. Regardless of the size, once you decide to start flowering you must set the lighting cycle to 12/12 (twelve hours of light and twelve hours of darkness). Ten to fourteen days after changing your lighting cycle, your plants will begin to flower. If they haven't already, your plants will begin to show either male pollen sacs or female buds.
You will most likely want to remove the males as soon as they are identified and throw them out or make hash or hash oil out of them. Once they are pulled, the flowering phase has really begun and you will finally see your female plants produce their luscious buds. The length of your flowering phase will vary depending on the strain of marijuana you are growing. It can last anywhere from 39-100 days long, but most indoor (Indica) strains average at about 60 days.
Regardless of day/night lengths, a plant is only able to produce flowers when it has attained the minimal vegetative size necessary to support the weight of the buds and a sufficient food reserve to supply the considerable demands of developing reproductive organs. Most marijuana plants should be induced to flower no smaller than six inches, but the ideal size is between one and two feet tall for standard indoor growing.
Week 2: Vegetative growth continues, with plants growing a third larger before beginning to bud.
Week 3: Vegetative growth ceases as the plant focuses on developing flowers, resin and possibly seeds.
Week 4: Nodes begin to develop buds and increase THC production to protect its seed set.
Week 6: If the plant does not become fertilized, it devotes most of its energy into THC production.
Week 8: Buds continue to grow in size and ripen as the stigmas turn amber or brown.
Perhaps the most successful function of trichomes in plant proliferation is their attractiveness to humans.
Trichomes help prevent seed damage from insects, animals, light degradation and fungal disease.
To preserve the trichomes on the buds and leaves, wear Some growers run their THC-covered leaves over a rubber gloves and handle with care when examining. fine mesh screen and then collect the trichomes.
Flushing your plants with distilled water two weeks prior to harvesting reduces the mineral taste.
Harvesting in the morning ensures that your plants will be at peakTHC content.
Most growers harvest when 70-90% of the stigmas turn amber and wither to ensure high THC levels.
A pocket microscope works well for getting a closer peek at your trichome development.
Deprive your plants of water for six to twelve hours before harvesting to speed the drying time of your bud.
Cutting medium-sized branches lets you manicure many Hanging your buds is an effective way to dry them, buds at one time without straining your hands. but it doesn't increase their potency.
Step 1: Find an ideal area to cut, then firmly hold the stem above the cut so the cola doesn't fall to the ground.
Step 3: Begin manicuring the colas by removing the large fan leaves, then clip the smaller leaves near the buds.
Step 2: Make the cut and remove the cola. Gently place branches on wax paper as you harvest the rest of the plant.
Step 4: Use the tips of your bonsai scissors to remove the remaining leaf tips without many trichomes on them.
Step 5: Finally, cut the branch into smaller When your blades become coated in resin, segments. The buds are then ready to dry scrape them off using a razor blade or use or can be further manicured. rubbing alcohol to clean them.
Female flowers consists of two white stigmas attached at the base to an ovule contained in a tiny green pod.
The ovule is formed from modified leaves (bracts and bracteoles) which envelop the developing seed.
When seed pods open, you can begin to remove the seeds and dry them in a light-proof container.
Seed color and pattern are affected naturally by the need for camouflage.
Sativa 50%/Indica 50% Flowering time: 60-65 days
Mostly Sativa Flowering time: 60-65 days
Mostly Sativa Flowering time: 63-70 days
Mostly Indica Flowering time: 50-55 days
Heavy Duty Fruity
Sativa 50% / Indica 50% Flowering time: 60-65 days
Neon Super Skunk
Mostly Indica Flowering time: 56-63 days
Mostly Sativa Mostly Indica
Flowering time: 66-70 days Flowering time: 56-63 days
Dutch Dragon Swiss Bliss
Mostly Sativa Mostly Sativa
Flowering time: 63-70 days Flowering time: 63-70 days
Nebula (Close up) Sugar Babe
Sativa 55% / Indica 45% Mostly Indica
Flowering time: 60-65 days Flowering time: 54-60 days
Mostly Indica Flowering time: 56-60 days
Sativa 10%/Indica 90% Flowering time: 56-63 days
Sativa 50% / Indica 50% Mostly Indica
Flowering time: 60 days Flowering time: 56-60 days
Effect: Body relaxing with medical qualities
Effect: Sweet tasting and energetic
Effect: Trippy Effect: Cerebral, trippy
Effect: A nice clear high with relaxing effects.
Effect: Smooth taste with a pleasant buzz.
Effect: Long lasting, invigorating effects.
Freshly harvested Sputnik 1.0 bud before drying has begun.
Sputnik 1.0 trimmed to a connoisseur cut and dried for over a week. Bud is ready to be stored or smoke.
The Orange Velvet strain is over 20 years old and Carefully handling buds after manicuring and drying, sports deep shades of burgundy and maroon. helps maintain high amounts ofTHC content.
Most growers go for the "connoisseur cut" when manicuring their personal bud.
Due to the effort involved, most growers leave some small leaves on the rest of their crop.
Once the buds are dry, they can be sealed in jars for many months, even years.
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